the Thoreau Log.
28 January 1858. Concord, Mass.

Thoreau writes in his journal:

  Minott has a sharp ear for the note of any migrating bird . . .  Coming through the village at 11 P.M., the sky is completely overcast, and the (perhaps thin) clouds are very distinctly pink or reddish, somewhat as if reflecting a distant fire, but this phenomenon is universal all round and overhead . . .
(Journal, 10:264-266)

Thoreau also writes to T. W. Higginson in reply to his letter of 27 January:

Dear Sir,  

  It would be perfectly practicable to go the Madawaska the way you propose—As for the route to Quebec, I do not find the “Sugar-loaf Mts” on my maps. The most direct and regular way, as you know, is substantially Montresor’s & Arnold’s, and the younger John Smith’s—by the Chaudiere; but this is less wild. If your object is rather to see the St. Lawrence River below Quebec, you will probably strike it at the Riviere du Loup. (V. Hodges’s account of his excursion thither via the Allegash. I believe it is on the 2nd Report on the Geology of the Public Lands of Maine & Mass, in ‘37.) I think that our Indian last summer, when we talked of going to the St. Lawrence named another route, near the Madawaska—perhaps the St. francis, which would save the long portage which Hodge made.

  I do not know whether you think of ascending the St Lawrence in a canoe—but if you should you might be delayed not only by the current, but by the waves, which frequently run too high for a canoe in such a mighty stream. It would be a be a grand excursion to go to Quebec by the Chaudiere—descend the St Lawrence to the Riviere du Loup & so return by the Madawaska & St Johns to Frederickton, or further—almost all the way down stream a very important consideration

  I went to Moosehead in company with a party of four who were going a hunting down the Allegash—& St Johns, and thence by some other stream over into the Restigouche & down that to the Bay of Chaleur—to be gone 6 weeks!

  Our northern terminus was an island in Heron Lake on the Allegash (V. Colton’s R. R. & Township map of Maine.) The Indian proposed that we should return to Bangor by the St Johns & Great Schoodic Lake—which we had thought of ourselves—and he showed us on the map where we should be each night. It was then noon, and the next day night, continuing down the Allegash, we should have been at the Madawaska settlements, having made only one or 2 portages, and thereafter, on the St. Johns there would be but one or 2 more falls with short carries, and if there was not too much wind, we could go down that stream 100 miles a day. It is settled all the way below the Madawaska. He knew the route well. He even said that this was easier, and would take but little more time, though much further, than the route we decided on—i.e. by Webster Stream—the East Branch & Main Penobscot to Oldtown—but he may have wanted a longer job. We preferred the latter—not only because it was shorter, but because—as he said, it was wilder.

  We went about 325 miles with the canoe (including 60 miles of Stage between Bangor & Oldtown) were out 12 nights, & spent about 40 dollars apiece, which was more than was necessary We paid the Indian, who was a very good one, $1.50 per day & 50 cts per week for his canoe. This is enough in ordinary seasons. I had formerly paid $2 00 for an Indian & for white batteau-men

  If you go to the Madawaska in a leisurely manner, supposing no delay on account of rain or the violence of the wind, you may reach Mt Kineo by noon, & have the afternoon to explore it. The next day you may get to the head of the Lake before noon, make the portage of 2 ½ miles over a wooden R R & drop down the Penobscot half a dozen miles. The 3d morning you will perhaps walk half a mile bout Pine Stream Falls, while the Indian runs down, cross the head of Chesuncook, & reach the junction of the Caucomgomock & Umbazookskskus by noon, and ascend the latter to Umbazookskskus before entering the lake. The 4th morning you will make the carry of 2 miles to Mud Pond (Allegas water) & a very wet carry it is, & rach Chamberlain Lake by noon, & heron Lake perhaps that night, after a couple of very short carries at the outlet of Chamberlain.

  At the end of 2 days more, you will probably be at Madawaska

  Of course the Indian can paddle twice as far in a day as he commonly does.

  Perhaps you would like a few more details—We used (3 of us) exactly 26 lbs of hard bread, 14 lbs of pork, 3 lbs of coffee 12 lbs of sugar (& could have used more) beside a little tea, Ind. meal, & rice & plenty of berries & moosemeat. This was faring very luxuriously. I had not formerly carried coffee—sugar, or rice. But for solid food, I decide that it is not worth the while to carry anything but hard bread & pork, whatever your tastes & habits may be. These wear best—& you have no time nor dishes in which to cook any thing else. Of course you will take a little Ind. meal to fry fish in—& half a dozen lemons also, if you have sugar—will be very refreshing—for the water is warm.

  To save time, the sugar, coffee, tea salt &c &c should be in separate water tight bags labelled and tied with a leather string; and all the provisions & blankets should be put into 2 large India rubber bags, if you can find them water tight—Ours were not.

  A 4-quart tin pail makes a good kettle for all purposes, & tin plates are portable & convenient. Dont forget an India rubber knapsack with a large flap-plenty of dish cloths—
old newspapers, strings, & 25 feet of strong cord.

  Of India rubber clothing the most you can wear, if any, is a very light coat, and that you cannot work in.

  I could be more particular, but perhaps have been too much so already.

  Yrs truly
  Henry D. Thoreau

(The Correspondence of Henry David Thoreau, 506-508; MS, Henry David Thoreau papers (Series III). Henry W. and Albert A. Berg Collection of English and American Literature, New York Public Library)

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